Sunday, October 16, 2011

Blow and Jiggle? Time for NESurgery.


My NES leaves a lot to be desired
both functionally and aesthetically.

Some blow until they're blue in the face. Others jiggle it in the slot until they get it just right. And many do both in a complicated voodoo ritual wrought with profanity and inevitable disappointment.

Whatever your preferred method, the blinking power light of peril is a fact of life for many retro gamers. Sitting down for a quick game of Bad Dudes on your front-loading (toaster) NES is rarely the seamless experience it was back when your were just a wee Bad Dude-ling.
 
The reason for this is a sad one: just like yourself, these things are getting old and crusty. And while there's not a great deal you can do for your games besides a good cleaning (swabbing the connectors with a little rubbing alcohol does the trick), there's hope for your trusty 8-bit Nintendo.   

Buried deep inside that gray box (or in my case, grayish box), you'll find a 72-pin connector attached to the motherboard. It looks like this:
The 72-pin connector inside every front-loading NES
connects your games to the motherboard



Digging deeper.

And as you'd expect, after seeing thousands of cartridges, all those nasty rental games, and the odd peanut butter sandwich, that thing's pretty worn out. So why not replace it?
 
It's suprisingly easy! You just need a new connector from Amazon and a smallish Phillips head screwdriver from your garage.

Next, start removing screws. Seriously. It's pretty clear that back in 1985 Nintendo wasn't counting on kids like you and me taking their new NES's apart, because it couldn't be easier. For directions, check out this writeup. He does a great job walking you through the process.

Here's a mega closeup of the old and new connectors:  



As you can see, the pins on the old connector are pretty well shot. The new connector's pins, however, appear to be made of gold...and that can't hurt, right?

At this point, you can slide off the old connector
and replace it with the new one.

The process is easy enough where you shouldn't think twice about giving it a shot if your NES is giving you a bunch of back sass. It took me no more than 30 minutes, and I stopped for frequent photo opportunities.   
  
The funny thing is, once I got everything back together, I discovered that my A/C adapter was toast (luckily I had another). Even worse; the first game I plugged in didn't work right away--and sonofabitch--the stupid thing fired right up as soon as I blew into it.  

Looks like I have a date with a box of Q-tips and some rubbing alcohol.

I'm bad!

Thursday, October 13, 2011

S-Video Comparo!

Well before anyone was connecting a next-generation console to a next-generation TV with a next-generation HDMI cable, video options for something Super Nintendo and PS1 weren't nearly as exotic. However, they weren't completely limited.

S-video/composite combo cables
 Most of us (myself included) got by with those wonky screw-in RF connectors or composite connectors (you know, the red/white/yellow jobbies), and in our defense, we didn't know any better. But if you were a real baller, you were rocking Donkey Kong Country through S-video.

Unlike composite connectors, which use a single plug to transmit video data to your television, S-video (short for "super video") takes a two-pronged approach. Look inside an S-video cable and you'll see four tiny pins: two pins carry gray scale data, and the other two take care of the color, effectively doubling the video bandwidth over a composite video cable. Not bad, huh?

So how's it look? See for yourself:


Castlevania: Symphony of the Night (click for more detail)
  A dark, 2-D game like SOTN is a perfect forum to show off the advantages to S-video. See the added color depth across Richter Belmot's shoulders, and the crispness of the sprites on his scabbard? And take a look at the background; the composite image looks positively muddy in comparison.

Some might argue that the composite image has a nice, smoothed appearance. However, when the sprites start moving, you'll notice a lot of blurring (especially when you're looking this close). S-video keeps those same sprites nice and tidy. The same holds true for on-screen text.

I definitely recommend giving S-video a try on your older consoles. Just about every modern flat panel TV has at least one S-video input, and quite a few CRTs support it, too. And heck--it's the best you're going to do on SNES, PS1, and Saturn.

Check out the slideshow below for even more examples (including that Donkey Kong Country I mentioned). Click any of the images for more detail:



Wednesday, October 12, 2011

What the Wednesday: SmartJoy FRAG for Xbox

This week's look into the weird and wonderful side of gaming starts with a confession:

I'm a dirty, rotten cheater. There. I said it.

For someone like me that grew up alongside first-person shooters, there's always been something...lacking about controlling them with anything but a mouse and keyboard. Heck, I remember when you could get by fine with just a keyboard.

Enter Halo 2.

Released on November 9, 2004, Master Chief's second adventure brought with it a robust and active multiplayer component via Xbox Live--a feature sorely missing from the first game. And once you've played through the single-player campaign, the competitive and addictive multiplayer game is really what'll keep you coming back for more.

To keep matches as even as possible, Xbox live balanced teams based on your player rank. For example, if one team had five rank 10 players, the other team might have one rank 20, a rank 15, and three rank fives. Numerically, it's still an even match.

I wasn't very good at shooters (and I'm still not), so I'd be one of those rank five meat bags pulling down the rest of my team. After long enough, I was convinced that the Xbox's gamepad (which is admittedly decent) was the weakest part of my game.

Being a resourceful young chap, I tracked down one of these:


This handy little device is called a SmartJoy FRAG, made by (the now defunct) Lik-Sang. Simply plug it into the controller port and you're ready to connect any PS/2 keyboard and mouse to your Xbox. And the best part? It works!

Without any fanfair, it allows you to transfer your PC setup to your Xbox. Plus, you can dabble in more advanced features like mouse deadzone calibration--all with a couple keystrokes.

It's not perfect for every situation (for instance, it made driving vehicles almost impossible), and there's really no point in using it for anything but first-person shooters, but it's still darn good.

I know what you're thinking: "Hey! That's an unfair advantage!" And you're right. The SmartJoy FRAG notably improved my FPS game. I went from an awful Halo 2 player to a remarkably average one.

I told you was bad.


Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Where does he get those wonderful toys?





Craigslist.org: it's not just for whores and drug addicts anymore!

Have you been to a store lately? More accurately, have you been to a video game store recently? Jeez, games are expensive! Honestly, how many people are lining up outside of Gamestop to pay $50 for a copy of Champion Jockey?

If you aren't bound and determined to own the latest in cutting-edge horse racing simulations, there are plenty of ways to get more giddyup out of your 50 buckaroos. My favorite way to save is Craigslist.

For the uninitiated, Craigslist, launched in 1995 by San Francisian Craig Newmark, is essentially the Internet's garage sale: mostly a bunch of baby clothes, picture frames with photos of people you don't know, and outdated furniture. But every now and then, you'll find something you can actually use, like video games. And whores.

Since this is a blog about video games, I'll stick to the former.

Your first step is to find the Video Gaming section of your local Craigslist page. It's the very last link in the for sale box.

Give it a click and you'll be innundated with local ads for consoles, games, and accessories. Don't be shy--start clicking.

This is where it pays to be a little flexible. Sure, you can use the search box within the video gaming listings if you're looking for something in particular, but that sort of convenience often comes at a premium. That's why Champion Jockey costs $50 at Gamestop. Instead, shop with an open mind. (By the way, Faxanadu for the NES is totally worth $3 if you stumble on it.)

The more cost effective strategy is to keep an eye out for lots of games--or even better--a console with a bunch of games included, like this ad:



This guy's selling an Xbox, five controllers (seriously...five?) and 12 games for $75. That's a pretty decent deal, but what if you already have an xbox and a reasonable amount of controllers? How much do you think he'd take for just the games? $30? Assuming they all have their cases and manuals, that's not a bad deal for 11 decent games plus the Matrix.

Here's what I do. Email. Always email.

Click the "reply to" link at the top of the page and fire off an email to the seller. Be explicit in the subject line (like "Xbox-and-games-for-sale-on-Craigslist," explicit, not "Hot-beef-injection" explicit), state what the email is in regards to, ask if he'd be willing to sell the games separate from the system, and how much he'd be looking to get.

Don't make an offer yet.

When (if) he gets back to you, you'll be in the envious position of being able to make a counter offer. Now you're bargaining down, and not up. See how that works? And if he wants way too much for the games or won't split the items up, you haven't insulted the seller with some lowball offer.

Assuming you can come to a mutually agreeable amount, this is the point where you get to go pick up your stack of games. In my experience, people are usually good and honest, but generally, you'll want to meet in a public place to make the exchange. Sometimes it'll be necessary to meet at their house, like if you want to see something working before you buy.

After you're done trolling the Video Games section, swing by the general search box on the front page before you leave. It looks like this:


What you're searching for here are games, consoles, etc. that aren't categorized in the video gaming category. Like this:


Ads like this are awesome. These are people that have what you want and don't care enough to categorize it correctly, or value it enough to list it separately from the other junk they're selling. I searched for "Dreamcast" and it turns out that this lady was selling a Genesis, Saturn, and a Dreamcast at her garage sale. Nice. 

So go forth, conquer Craigslist, and be cheap! Sure, you're going to get plenty of unresponsive sellers or deals that generally just fall apart, but I guarantee that your determination will pay big dividends.


Sunday, October 9, 2011

Recent Pickups Episode 2

 
Sega Saturn (Version 1)
 
Release Date:  May 11, 1995
Acquired From: Crazy hoarder lady that claimed she was "moving"
Condition: Passable
Notes: Looking forward to getting my hands on some Japanese import games. 
 
 
 
 
Daytona USA
Console: Sega Saturn
Release Date: April 1, 1995
Developer: Sega AM2
Publisher: Sega
Condition: Cheesed manual, good case and disc
Acquired From: Crazy hoarder that claimed she was "moving"
Notes: The game is fun, but the music is epic. "Daaaaaaaytoooooonaaaaa!"

Bug Too!
Console: Sega Saturn 
Release Date: November 30, 1996Developer: Realtime Associates
Publisher: Sega
Condition: Pretty darn good
Acquired From: Crazy hoarder that claimed she was "moving"
Notes: Worth more than I paid for all the Saturn stuff in this post. Sweet!
Sonic 3D Blast
Console: Sega Saturn 
Release Date: November 30, 1996
Developer: Sonic Team
Publisher: Sega
Condition: Crack on the case, but I'll take it
Acquired From: Crazy hoarder that claimed she was "moving"
Notes: Screen movement makes me want to barf, however, most modern Sonic games make me want to barf, too.

Clockwork Knight
Console: Sega Saturn
Release Date: May 11, 1995
Developer: Sega
Publisher: Sega
Condition: Tagged disc, missing manual. So sad.
Acquired From: Crazy hoarder that claimed she was "moving"
Notes: Anyone have an extra manual for Clockwork Knight? It's probably mine.

Triple Play 2000
Console: Nintendo 64
Release Date: March 22, 1999
Developer: EA Canada
Publisher: Electronic Arts
Condition: Loose and super clean, like some guy I know
Acquired From: Birthday gift!
Notes: Created by Americans, digitized by Canadians


Legend of Mana
Console: Sony Playstation
Release Date: June 7, 2000
Developer: Square
Publisher: Square
Condition: Extra minty!
Acquired From: The very first donation to the Backward Compatible Video Game Blog fund! Thanks bro!
Notes: The sequel to one of my favorite SNES games!

Breath of Fire III
Console: Sony Playstation
Release Date: April 30, 1998
Developer: Capcom
Publisher: Capcom
Condition: Double mint!
Acquired From: The second donation to the BCVGB fund! (Only because it was on the bottom of the package.) Double thanks, bro!
Notes: When you can transform into a dragon, they'll make three video games about you, too.

Time Splitters
Console: Playstation 2
Release Date: October 23, 2000
Developer: Free Radical Design
Publisher: Eidos Interactive
Condition: Good. No...great.
Acquired From: Local rental store's going out of business sale
Notes: The first in a series of excellent underrated shooters


Grand Theft Auto III
Console: Playstation 2
Release Date: October 22, 2001
Developer: DMA Design
Publisher: Rockstar Games
Condition: Missing manual. Stolen, no doubt.
Acquired From: Goodwill
Notes: Can you believe I didn't own this?


Tony Hawk's Pro Skater 3
Console: Playstation 2
Release Date: October 28, 2001
Developer: Neversoft
Publisher: Activision
Condition: Missing manual, brah.
Acquired From: Goodwill
Notes: Perhaps the best in the series, then Activision nailed  its tasty "sequel into the ground" 360 maneuver.

God of War
Console: Playstation 2
Release Date: March 22, 2005
Developer: Sony Computer Entertainment
Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
Condition: Zeus's beard! They've made off with the manual!
Acquired From: Goodwill
Notes: Believe it or not, I've only ever played the HD remake. Not in a big hurry to try it in low-rez.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Console cleanup!


Deep within the game room, stashed away behind a jungle of tangled power cords and broken controllers, I'm hiding a dirty secret. Something so foul and repulsive that my wife, friends, and family could never know about it. And it's not even porn.

Long before the giant TV's, hundreds of games, and fancypants blog, I had a Super Nintendo that I foolishly turned my back on. Forces beyond my control had left it horribly disfigured, and what did I do? I cast it away like like a bell-ringing hunchback. Superficial.

Today, I bring you a story of redemption.

Here is Quasimodo, my “other” Super Nintendo:


Yellowing of plastic over time is common. This is an extreme example.


Tragically yellowed over time, and maliciously robbed of his cartridge doors and his dignity, I've taken it upon myself to restore him to his former 16-bit glory.

Like most Nintendo hardware, Quasi functions just as well as the day he was manufactured. His delicious purple and gray candy shell, however, has never looked less appetizing. As you can see, the upper half is suffering from some nasty discoloration.

This phenomenon is a pretty common among older electronics. It's not dirt or smoke damage as you might expect, but actually the result of a chemical reaction between sunlight and a flame-retardant additive in the plastic.

Unfortunately, this means that no amount of elbow grease will return Quasimodo to his original 1991-era glory.

Do not abandon hope, for there is a cure! ...and it's awesomely weird.

Remember when you were back in high school and you thought it'd be wicked cool to dye your hair blonde like Justin Timberlake's? (No? Just me?) Well, the reason that it works (chemically, not socially) is that the bleach oxidizes the melanin in your hair, rendering it colorless, while the yellowish keratin shines through.

Turns out that you can achieve the same thing with a gnarly old Super Nintendo, by molecularly stripping the barf color out of that flame-retardant chemical, without losing the original gray hue. It's science, and it actually works pretty well!
The first step is to go to Sally Beauty or a similar beauty supply store, and ask the girl behind the counter for a bottle of cream peroxide in the highest volume they have. At this point, make sure that you go into a long-winded explanation what you're using it for. She'll be amused and informed, finding you both intelligent and incredibly sexy. Really.

She gave me this:
Salon Care 40 volume cream peroxide.
Before you get all Toxic Avenger on your SNES, take a second to clean the filthy thing with some dish soap and water. This is the part where I'm supposed to tell you to remove the shell from the electronics inside, but Nintendo uses some wacky security bits to to keep you from doing just that, and I didn't have the right screwdriver. Instead, I left it in one piece and tried to keep the splishy splashy to an absolute minimum.
That's uh...yeah.

Once it's free of grit and grime, put on your rubber gloves and pour a good bit of the peroxid onto the SNES. This stuff is serious business. It will burn your skin and ruin your clothes if you're not careful—go ahead and ask me how I know. Spread it on evenly with an old paintbrush, player.

Once the cream is good and slathered, wrap the whole enchilada up in plastic wrap...like an enchilada. Make sure it's air tight—you don't want your cream drying out and getting all crusty on you, Mr. Crusty Cream.

Now take it outside, set it down someplace sunny, and walk away. Remember, the console has to be in direct sunlight for the peroxide to work. Make sure that the sprinklers aren't set to come on and find something to occupy your time—I recommend Baldur's Gate or Sonic's Ultimate Genesis Collection.

Every hour or so, check the progress: make sure the sun hasn't moved on you (more accurately, the shadows) and give the console a quarter turn. Come back the next hour and repeat. Science is slow, but awesome.
Dexter approved!

After a while, you'll notice the original color returning to your beloved SNES. When you're satisfied with the results (or run out of sunlight, in my case), remove plastic wrap and give everything another good scrub. I'm not sure what the long term effect of bleach on plastic is, but it can't be good. Or can it?

Check out the results for yourself:

Not perfect, but better. One more application will do the trick.

It's not 100%, but it looks a heck of a lot better than it did. The next sunny weekend I have (could be a while here in Cleveland), I'll give it one more application. Consider this a very strong proof of concept.

I'll definitely be trying this with a few more consoles in the future. Both my front-loading and top-loading NES have developed a slightly yellowish tinge over the years (not nearly as bad as Quasimodo, here), along with my “display” SNES and my Dreamcast.

It's a friggin' epidemic and the cure is just a $2 bottle of peroxide and a sunny afternoon away.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

What the Wednesday: Fly Paper

As if owning the sequel to an obscure Saturn platformer wasn't odd enough, it turns out that my manual for Bug Too! came with an extra page:



Yup. That's original 15-year-old receipt, and a quick glance reveals that this kid was having the best. day. ever.

Forget the fact that he's getting a brand new, cutting-edge Sega Saturn game (one that really isn't half bad), he also has an 11" penguin and a candy popper in his shopping cart. I don't even know what a candy popper is, but you better believe that I want one. And an 11" penguin? Seriously? Who the hell is this kid, anyway?

I'd go so far as to proclaim Bug Too! to be the third most desirable item purchased on this shopping trip.

More questions:
  • There are two dates on this receipt: 12/28/96 and 1/18/97 with the note "even ex." Did this person buy a different game with Christmas money and then exchange three weeks later? Remember when you could take back games?
  • 8.5% sales tax in Carle Place, NY? Yikes.
  • Remember when they put your entire credit car number on receipts?